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1 Silk Fabrics
The Silk Association of Great Britain and Ireland, Inc., has formulated the following definitions of " Silks ": - (1) Silk means the natural product of the silkworm, whether net, spun, or schappe silk. (2) Woven or knitted textiles and articles made therefrom. Silk goods may only be so called if they contain no other fibre than silk. They may be further qualified as pure silk goods if they contain no tin weighting and no added weight of any kind other than that which is an essential part of dyeing and finishing. (3) The word silk may be used for articles containing silk and other fibres provided it is clearly qualified, as for example, silk warp taffeta, silk warp poplin, silk pile velvet, silk mixture, silk union, etc. (4) Smallwares, certain smallwares containing silks in combination with other fibres (such as Paris bindings, gimps, eyeglass cords, etc.), have been by long established custom known as "silks." Only where there is a clear long established custom may they continue to be described as silk, otherwise the general principles set forth above will apply. The more generally known silk fabrics are as given below: - Armures - Barathea, Loisine, Natte, Ottoman, Roy ale. Repp. Figured Silks - Arras, Broche, Brocatelle, Brocades, Chevron, Chine warp prints. Cote-line, Damassin, Foulard, Lampas, Matelasse, Striped tabaret. Satins - Duchesse, Meteor, Mervelleux, Peau de Soie, Radyimar, Raadames, Radium, Satin mousseline. Satin messaline. Satin lus-mineaux. Satin charmeuse. Satin de Lyon, Satin chine. Satin lumiere, Soleil, Soie de Devil. Twills - Serge, Surah, Sarcenat. Velvet, or pile weaves - Terry velvet frese, Utrecht, Velours de nord. Velours de chiffon, Velours de sabre. Silk warp, wool weft - Bengaline, Cotele, Crepon, Irish poplin, Popeline, Poplinette, Sultane, Sicilienne, Velours Victoria, Veloa-tine. Silk warp, cotton weft - Moirette, Polonaise, Satins, Satinet, Striped linings. Taffetas, plain weaves - Bengaline de Soie, Epingle, Faille Francaise, Glace, Gros grain, Gros de Tours, Gros de Naples, Gros de Suez, Lustring, Pongee, Poult de Soie, Royale, Tabaret, Taffeta mousseline. Taffeta chiffon. Crepe de chine, Ninon, tulle, voile, Marquisette, Moire onde. Moire Faconne, Moire Francaise, Moire Antique. -
2 Silk Grass
A general term applied to many lustrous fibres of the pineapple or other plants, especially the white, strong, and silky fibre from the Fureroca Cubensis, in tropical America. The term silk grass is often applied wrongly to the Pineapple fibre. -
3 Silk Noils
Silk noils may be divided into two major divisions, i.e., Schappe noils, produced on the Continent, and English noils. The broad difference is that whereas the former are not free from the natural gum of the silkworm, the latter have the gum fully discharged. Owing to the difference of the processes of which they are the outcome, the English noil is whiter and longer than the schappe noil. The English noil in its turn is of two kinds "long" and "exhaust." The long noil is the simple by-product of the flat-dressing frame, and the exhaust (or short) noil has been recombed and is more " neppy " than the material from which it came. All silk noils, long or short, schappe or English, may be divided into " white " and " tussah " according as they are the produce of one kind of silk or the other. The white has many sub-divisions (" China " and " Italian," " Steam," etc.) and the tussah may be light or dark brown according as its origin is Chinese or Indian waste silk. These noils, after spinning, appear as noil yarns, which are useful among other purposes as striping yarn for cheap tweeds. They are also useful substitutes for " spun " silk at three to four times the price. Noils are used in the production of fancy effects by Continental spinners of the so-called " imitation " yarns. And in Yorkshire silk noils are periodically required by costume and dress tweed makers for procuring " knop " or snowflake effects in cheap woollens. For this purpose the " short " or " exhaust " noil is preferable to the " long " and in some circumstances the short or re-combed noil fetches a higher price than the intrinsically better noil containing the long fibre. -
4 Silk Cotton
The fine, lustrous fibre obtained from several species of cotton tree (Bombax Ceiba) found growing in South America and the West Indies. The seed capsules give this soft and glossy down which is too short and springy for spinning. Used for stuffing although it is believed to be objectionable to lie upon (see Kapok and Mockmain) -
5 Waste Silk
The unreelable portions of silk cocoons, and waste from silk throwing mills, etc. It is spun into yarns of two entirely different characters. The waste silk is carefully combed on specially designed machines, each successive combing yielding shorter fibre length than the previous one. These drafts are spun, usually on ring frames, into high grade yarns. The very short waste or noils remaining when the best fibre has been used are spun into coarse counts on the woollen principle, and on the Continent this class of yarn is known as schappe silk. -
6 Boiled-Off Silk
BOILED-OFF SILK, IIThe product of the boiling-off (also called, degumming) process, in which raw silk, thrown silk, or fabricated silk is subjected to a treatment in hot water, soap and other solutions to dissolve and remove the gum or sericin, which is the coat protecting the clean fibre filaments of a thread from becoming separated, and to remove tints, dirt and other foreign substances which are not inherent in the nature of the silk. (Official definition, U.S.A.) ————————BOILED-OFF SILK, IUndyed thrown silk which has had the natural gum removed by boiling in soap solution. This process of boiling-off removes about 25 per cent of the weight. It is a necessary operation (same as degumming). Before boiling-off the thread is harsh, stiff and dull, but afterwards it is soft, flexible and lustrous. -
7 Rhea Fibre
RAMIE, or RHEA FIBREA very strong and durable fibre. It is grown in China, Japan, Java, India, etc. Ramie fibre is very white, has a high lustre, and can be separated into filaments as fine as silk. The ramie plant belongs to the family of Urtica (nettle) and to the sub-division Boehmeria. It contains about 25 per cent of gum and when degummed is much stronger than hemp or cotton. It can be spun with less twist than other fibres of similar length of staple. It resists damp, and when mixed with wool imparts non-shrinking properties to the resulting yarn. The fibre lengths vary from 4-in. to 72-in. It is much used for gas mantles. Ramie counts are usually in the worsted system (see China Grass). The two best fibre-yielding species are" Boehmeria tenacissima, often called the green-leaved ramie, as its leaves are entirely green; and Boehmeria nivea, often called the white-leaved ramie, as the undersides of its leaves are silvery white. The nivea species is very largely grown in China, and to a lesser degree in India and Formosa, and the tenacissima in Java, Sumatra, Borneo, Malacca, Mexico, and other tropical countries. -
8 Atlas Silk
A wild silk variety obtained from the Attacus atlas. The silkworm spins open cocoons and gives the so-called Ailanthus silk. The fibre is dark coloured and coarser than real silk. Also a silk fabric woven in India of rich coloured yams. -
9 Milkweed Fibre
A seed-hair fibre obtained from the common milkweed or silk-weed plant Asclepias Incarnata, which grows extensively in America. The surface fibre from the seedpods is used for upholstery stuffing. It has been used in France for the manufacture of" Silver cloth." It is weak and brittle and inferior to kapok which it resembles This fibre is also known as Asclepias cotton. -
10 Antherea Silk
A term often applied to the silk produced by the Antherea mylitta, a wild silkworm of India, which gives the so-called tussah silk. The worms feed on the leaves of the castor-oil plant, and give very large cocoons. The fibre is much longer than from the cocoon of the Pombyx mori, varying from 600 to 2,000 yards in length. The colour of tussah silk varies from a grey to a deep brown. Other wild silks are also frequently given this name (see Antherea) -
11 Cellulose Acetate Textile Fibre
Cellulose Acetate fibre is soft and warm to the handle and absorbs moisture slower than some other types of rayon. It closely resembles real silk. This fibre cannot be dyed with the ordinary cotton colours, thus enabling a designer to utilise this quality for cross-dyed effects. It can be manufactured into very fine yarns. Owing to its softness, it is successfully used for a great variety of dress fabrics and for draping. It is made from cotton or wood-pulp, which is converted into a compound, termed acetyl compound of cellulose. This compound is dissolved in acetone and the solution filtered. The solution is then forced through very fine openings and the filaments coagulated by exposure to warm air. These filaments are brought together to form a thread with the necessary twist.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Cellulose Acetate Textile Fibre
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12 Patta Fibre
Sanskrit for a fibre believed to be silk or jute. Patta means " shining fibre." -
13 Pineapple Fibre
A soft, very fine, lustrous and durable leaf fibre obtained from the pineapple in the Philippines. It is one of the finest fibres and used for the sbeerest muslins and the Pina cloth made in the Islands. The fibre has great durability and is unaffected by water. Also known as silk grass. It is also found in China, South America, Mexico and parts of Africa. The cost of production is very high which restricts its use. -
14 All-Silk Goods
These must contain no other textile fibre, such as cotton, linen, wool, ramie, rayon or any other. Fabrics called "all-silk" are commonly adulterated by means of weighted dyes in both warp and weft. The limit of weighting is commonly given as 50 and 100 per cent (warp and weft), the percentage being based on the return weight as against the weight of the natural silk handed to the dyer, which is, of course, 16-oz. to the lb. Actually the percentage of weighting is more, owing to the "boiling-off" losses by the removal of the natural gum. -
15 Kikai Ribbizzo Silk
A name given by the Japanese to waste made in reeling silk and is the best known. It is costly as waste silk goes and is of a good colour and length of fibre without lustre.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Kikai Ribbizzo Silk
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16 Abrome Fibre
Fine silky fibres yielded by the Abroma Augusta plant, a native of the East Indies. The fibre is obtained from the white bark and used for cordage and many purposes for which jute is employed. Owing to their whiteness and cleanliness it is suggested as a substitute for silk. Also known as Devil's cotton and perennial Indian hemp. -
17 Pure Silk Goods
These are fabrics composed wholly of silk, free from adulteration by tannic acid, sugar, salts, or any other kind of added constituent,andfreefrom any other fibre. -
18 Sansaverde Fibre
Obtained from a fibrous plant grown in Paraguay. It is very dark coloured, but after treatment becomes white and very silky and is a good imitation of silk. Damp soil is necessary for its growth. -
19 jedwab sztuczny
• fibre silk -
20 искусственный шёлк
1) General subject: acetate silk, acetic silk, fiber silk, fibre silk, near-silk, rayon2) Engineering: rayon yarn3) Textile: artificial filament, continuous filament, filament rayon yarn, imitation silk, rayon filament4) Polymers: artificial silk5) Makarov: near silk (имитирующий шёлк)Универсальный русско-английский словарь > искусственный шёлк
См. также в других словарях:
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